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While Boris Johnson reneges on his promise to bring back conductors across the bus network, so that ‘his’ new route masters will eventually not have open backs at all, the Nicaraguan bus service thrives on their help. We’d never have even found the right bus without Eduardo, who made sure we knew where to stand and when the bus had arrived. He then rode the whole journey from San Carlos to Juigalpa, sometimes clinging to the outside of the bus to make sure there was room for everyone inside (including one woman who was transporting a 28” cathode-ray TV by bus), and always managed to look cheerful about it.

I like the joy on his face in this picture. How he manages to be quite so cheerful clinging to the side of a speeding bus, you’d have to ask him, but he clearly knows (and likes) what he’s doing.

I was a bit more concerned about the Panamanian equivalent, which relies on child conductors hanging off the outside of the buses – not cool, Panama, not cool.